Island Spotlight - Qualicum Beach, Features and a People's History
As a relative newcomer to Qualicum Beach, getting to know the place and satisfying a craving for espresso was a dual mission that I needed to accomplish. To justify this indulgent behaviour, an offering of this article sharing what was encountered is presented to you.
 Qualicum is the aboriginal people’s word meaning “dog salmon” (chum salmon) from which the town derived its name. Because no one thought Town of “Dog Chum” was a good name, it instead, became known officially as Qualicum Beach. The Hudson’s Bay Company basically controlled all of Vancouver Island at one time and in 1856 it sent explorer Adam Horne to survey the central Island area and find an overland route to the Alberni Inlet. Horne succeeded, but also heard tell of a brutal massacre of the local Salish population by their fierce enemy, the Haida. Eight years later, botanist and explorer Robert Brown found the central Island mostly deserted due to tribal warfare and the smallpox epidemic of 1862. European settlers following Brown’s expedition turned the area into a successful lumbering, fishing and resort community. The E&N Railway steamed into the region in 1894 and railway official H. E. Beasley founded the Merchants Trust and Trading Company which planned what would be the town of Qualicum Beach’s layout and golf course in 1913 (after all, what is a town without a golf course?) Qualicum Beach was incorporated as a village in 1942, it was elevated to town status in 1983 and has grown to its approximate 8,600 residents all the while fiercely protecting its small-town charm. It has bylaws which prohibit chain stores or fast food restaurants from sprouting up. However, a variety of delicious quick food is available for those on the go. There is, of course fine dining for the discerning who wish to savour the flavour and slow down the pace. A point of interest: the local high school, which plays an important role in this community, shares the town’s name but uses an alternate spelling. It was originally thought that “Kwalikum” was how the local Salish-Puntledge word for the area would translate into English. The distinctive spelling of Kwalikum Senior Secondary remains to this day. The school of approximately 800 students is known for its excellent music program, academics and is home to the Kwalikum Kondors. I live in a cottage built circa 1914. It is one of the oldest structures in town and borders a true Qualicum Beach treasure, the Heritage Forest. This emerald gem is a protected 50-acre parcel of rain forest boasting Douglas Firs over 300 years old. The gentle trails are suitable for almost anyone to navigate and allow for an enchanting walk around the many adjoining trails. It is a thriving but sensitive ecosystem that needs to be respected as well as enjoyed — so please stay on trails and clean up after Fido. It is true wilderness in the heart of the community. Nestled into the other side of the forest is a man-made gem known as the Crown Mansion. Open the door and step into the past, to a time of opulence and privilege; crystal chandeliers, servants, cigars and brandy enjoyed in wood paneled libraries. While the servants have gone and cigars may now only be indulged out of doors, it still retains the look and feel of British-colonial living. It was built in 1912 by British General Noel Money, who entertained Hollywood royalty including Bing Crosby and John Wayne, as well as royalty of the ruling kind, the King of Siam. The mansion was eventually purchased by financier R.A. Brown. The completely refurbished Brown family home has been seamlessly extended to include luxury condos. The other half of the mansion is a hotel which boasts its own amenities such as elegant furnishings and modern convenience married to old world lavishness.  Golf is plentiful in the area. All of the local courses have their own appeal. Nine hole, executive or stunning 18 hole professional championship calibre, the central Island has for decades been a destination for western Canadians wanting to hit the links. According to Statistics Canada, Qualicum Beach has the distinction of having one of the oldest (if not the oldest) populations in Canada, at 60.9 years. Some residents may bristle at mention of this distinction, but let us not forget that 60.9 is the new 50.9. This community is active and young at heart, not to mention friendly, courteous, and helpful. There are things to do in and around Qualicum Beach for all ages. On the way to Cathedral Grove, check out Java Junkies to find out what raku pottery, tattoos and espresso have in common. Further on is Little Qualicum Falls Provincial Park (and campground). The trails are moderately challenging, but the rewards of seeing the water falls pays dividends in witness to the power of water. The highway snakes along the shoreline of Cameron Lake, a great water sports destination. Heart rate elevating hikes above the lake offer commanding views. You may even spot the elusive Cameron Lake Creature, but that is another story.  |
 Cathedral Grove in McMillan Park on the way to Port Alberni is a renowned, popular destination with an incredible display of ancient cedar and fir giants in this old growth rain forest. It’s a natural treasure that can be enjoyed year round. Some of these trees were already 700 years old (I counted the rings myself) long before European explorers arrived on Vancouver Island. The trails are user-friendly and well maintained. The park is easily accessible and only 20 minutes from Qualicum Beach. Highway 4 actually bisects the park so please drive carefully and watch for pedestrian traffic.  On the return trip from Cathedral Grove a must-do is Coombs Country Market — home of the goats on the roof. If you are not familiar with the goats you will soon be endeared to them. Coombs is an eclectic collection of funky shops, food establishments, and interesting people. One could easily spend a couple of hours shopping, eating and of course, goat viewing.  If being underground is your thing, then take the inland highway west for 20 minutes to see the formations of Horne Lake Caves, named for prior mentioned intrepid explorer Adam Horne. In Qualicum Beach, the Chamber of Commerce office on Second Ave. is a little yellow house you can’t miss where you can pick up an informative brochure called Walk the Village. Another information center is located at the beach. While there, stroll along the waterfront and see if you can spot one of the many cruise ships en route to Alaska, or perhaps spy a seal, fishing in the shallows. The town boasts too many shops to mention them all. However, make sure you visit Hidden Waters, a unique gift shop that both sexes will enjoy; it brings the outside in and the inside out. Smithfords is another fun place to browse. Everything is so close together in Qualicum Beach and the products and services are in a word, diverse. Quaint yes, but all amenities are available. Take advantage of the walkability of the village to discover all the outstanding shops and their friendly keepers. Milner Gardens and Woodlands is a Qualicum Beach institution. I was there with a friend recently and enjoyed scones with Devon cream. Oh, by the way, they have flowers too, seriously beautiful gardens. Coffee houses are abundant and each offers their own specialties. I have sampled and enjoyed many a barrista’s’ creation in the various bistros around town. Honourable mention goes to Cafe Brie; fun, friendly service compliments the great food and quality coffee in this cozy place tucked behind What’s Cooking and Sweet Dreams (two more great shops). A Step Above at Quality Foods is another place worth visiting. It has a metropolitan feel with plenty of private tables scattered about the welcoming space. It is perfect for a quiet chat or to just decompress and watch the shoppers below. Wrriten by Steve Crabb |