Island Hopping on Galiano Island

Pacific Rim Navigators president and owner Chris Shoquist and I dropped in on the isle of Galiano recently and let me say right here and now that this is one island and one resort that does not put its best foot forward in the summer time only. Rain or shine, hot, warm or cold, the trip was unforgettable and completely recommendable.

Getting to Galiano Island is half the fun. There are ferry rides to handle. For we islanders, that might mean a groan or two. But for you visitors, it’s a chance for you to sample a taste of what it means to live out here. We drove down Island in the comfort of Shoquist’s 2000 Lincoln Navigator, a sweet, roomy ride with soft, wide leather seats and air suspension that makes you feel “like you’re riding on a big cushion of air,” says Shoquist. While he also has a sweet custom built 2004 Chevy Express Van for larger groups, the Navigator is perfect for our boys night out jaunt across the pond. “This is as far up as you can go,” he says of the quality of SUV. “The Navigator is on par with Lexus, and Cadillac Escalade.”

Pacific Rim Navigators is a business which makes touring Vancouver Island and the islands around her something to remember. Shoquist is a professional driver who points out spots of interest while serving up tidbits of local trivia to add to your experience of the Island.

Though there are routes from Vancouver and Salt Spring Island to Galiano, we chose the Victoria crossing. With a brief stop on Mayne Island to switch ferries, we take about an hour all-in to get from Victoria to Sturdies Bay, a tiny port which offers mesmerizing views of Mount Baker as we enter harbour. Our first look at Galiano Island leaves me smiling. It is completely beautiful.

Galiano Island is named for Spaniard Dionisio Galiano (1762-1805). Captain Galiano was part of a 1792 expedition exploring the area in search of the Northwest Passage. Of course, long before him the Coast Salish nation were here for thousands of years. In fact, in Montague Harbour there is evidence of a 3,000 year old settlement from these people who passed on such a splendid legacy of honouring the earth we live on, the air we breathe and water we drink. Densely treed, generously dotted with many beaches and eminently hikable, Galiano is a naturalist’s paradise. Situated between Vancouver and Victoria off the east coast of Vancouver Island, at only 27.5 km long and just six km wide, Galiano Island is the perfect, quick getaway to rural coastal anonymity. From its white shelled beaches you can spot sea lions and seals, otters, eagles and occasionally, some of the pods of orcas that love to fish the Gulf Islands through Active Pass.

The temperature was around 15 Celsius for our visit, a virtually windless, (but overcast) typically comfortable autumn day. What wasn’t typical was our choice of lodging for the night. The Galiano Oceanfront Inn and Spa.

When on an Island populated by just 1,000 people, one might be forgiven if one expects a less than five-star accommodation. Well one had better not include the Galiano Inn on that might-be-forgiven list. Under the watchful eyes of owners Mel Gibb and Conny Nordin, this facility is stunning. Not garishly flashy, but instead rich in attention to detail, this 20 room resort has nothing but first class written all over it. Ten oceanfront villa suites, and 10 oceanfront spa suites, all “Thoughtfully designed and furnished to refresh, relax and inspire,” the Inn’s marketing department claims, and one cannot argue the point at all.

Firstly, every room overlooks the beautiful oceanfront. You lay in bed, you see the water. You take a private hot soaker tub bath at midnight, you are outdoors watching the reflection of the moon on the water. From your deck or patio, you see the seabirds dancing, and hear the gentle pat of the waves on the shore 100 yards away. Walking about the property you see the amazing array of gardens on its three acres. Vibrant purples, yellows, blues and greens, lushness and natural beauty is abundant. Rock gardens, waterfalls, ponds and plants, a lush symphony of calmness taking the concrete and noise of your day to day life away in a flash.

The rooms are also spectacular. Named for local islands with Spanish titles — Cortes, Flores, Quadra, Redonda, Saturna, Gabriola, Valdes, Texada etc., they offer open beam ceilings, cherry wood finished cabinetry, outdoor decks and terraces, wood-burning fireplaces, outdoor grills and large baths — even a massage table in the spa suites. The 10 villa suites beckon with king bedrooms, separate living, dining and kitchen areas,

kingsize beds and elegant dark, rich solid wood furniture. Highdefinition flat screen televisions blend quietly with the decor, and Ipod stations and radios are on hand also — but frankly sitting on the terrace and listening to the gulls argue was a way better idea than keeping tabs on the outside world. I suspected it would be there when I returned.

First there was the not-so-small order of massage to attend to, part of several forays into Madrona del Mar Spa and Wellness Retreat at the Galiano Inn I would gladly make over the next 24 hours.

In one of the secluded cottages built just for massage on the edge of a garden and pond, I experience the incredible hands of a young Australian massage therapist. Dan combines his knowledge of reflexology and therapeutic massage with a gentle confidence and spiritual mind-set. My massage is called a Blackberry Port massage.

Using tart and sweet blackberries which grow in rich abundance on Galiano and throughout the Gulf Islands, the hour I spend on the table is with me a week later. Take a Galiano blackberry port, mix it carefully with massage oil and voila! The aroma, quietness, and environment of the spa treatment is incredible

Walking back to my room through the lush gardens after the massage, I couldn’t wipe the smile off my face. I showered up in the room, with jets coming at me from the sides as well as typical shower head. The large bottles of island made shampoos and conditioners mock the typical throw-aways one usually expects at a hotel. Refreshed, I walk across the courtyard to one of the nicest restaurants I’ve had the pleasure to experience in 50 years on the planet.

The “Atrevida” restaurant is easily the most high end eatery on the island, but I venture to say it is one of the most exquisite in the gulf islands and Vancouver Island period. The view is spectacular, the atmosphere high end but not over the top. Open beam ceilings, polished wood floors, strong black wrought iron accents envelope a huge welcoming fireplace, and 180 degree views of Sturdies Bay all designed to calm the nerves and remind your spirit instantly that there is so much more to life than fast cars and deadlines.

Dining with one of the owners doesn’t hurt either. Conny Nordin is a beautiful, classy, articulate and warm soul, who shares history and laughs with us as plate after plate of stunning food makes its way to our table. Restaurant manager Richard Massey presents the very best offerings of chef Brian Long: Seared Scallop and Prawn, Boar Bacon Ragu and Dungeness Crab Beurre Blanc, and a 100 KM diet Ceasar Salad to die for. From there Nordin and I we treat ourselves to superb, perfectly sized portions of sauteed B.C. Sable Fish, along with Fennel Lobster and Potato Hash, married nicely with a Bearnaise Sauce. For desert I cannot resist a home made banana split.

By the time we leave Galiano the next night, I will have been fed a scrumptious Eggs Benedict in the morning, followed up with a 45 minute heavenly mineral sea flotation bath, a steam bath and a tour of this fabulous Island. My driver opts for a real Chocolate Pedicure and Foot Facial, which he describes as amazing, and also takes a dreamy visit to the floatation bath — one of the many signature spa experiences offered on site — from water therapies, wraps, warm stone therapies, scrubs and more, this visit to Galiano ends with a night ferry ride through Active Pass.

If you think Vancouver Island and its little island sisters are a little behind the world when it comes to luxuries, you have not been here.

Story written by Jeff Vircoe