South Pender is among the more popular islands that make up The Gulf Islands. Access is from BC Ferries from Tsawwassen on the mainland (limited sailings and two hours in duration), or from Sidney on Vancouver Island. Be sure to study the schedule as some sailings island hop and take a couple hours, but the main ferry is only about 20 minutes. And yes, I learned that the hard way as cars are loaded facing different directions and you start to wonder what is going on. If you are not in a hurry it is a great way to see more!

You may have already heard rumours about the incredible climate that South Pender enjoys. I can say that sometimes it is not true. During my two-year stay on South Pender I experienced some unusual weather, and spent five days without power, but everyone took care of each other and it turned out to be an excellent way to get to know more people.

My favourite way to arrive is to fly with one of the seaplane companies that provide an alternative to ferries. The many islands offer incredible views from the air and flying into Bedwell Harbour and Poets Cove Resort on South Pender is amazing. The resort is sculpted around the shell beach and is a remarkable place to see.

South Pender has a wonderful mix of bluffs, small mountains, beaches, lakes, and farmland. The Island also boasts beautiful forests of oak, evergreen, and arbutus. The history is rich as you view white shell middens that evidence the Coast Salish people’s long occupation. Or as I have, you may also find stories of the people that first arrived. For example, the Islands are named after Captain Daniel Pender who surveyed the coast of BC aboard the Plumper and other ships.

As is the case with most islands in the area, the population on South Pender soars over the summer and then returns to normal with autumn. Hiking, biking, fishing, sailing, kayaking, boating, diving, and countless beach walks are only some of the pursuits to occupy your time. Visiting the many artisan studios to view different creative pursuits is also very popular.

South Pender Island also has countless parks. Make it a personal challenge to find every post that identifies a beach access or hike. The formidable Mount Norman tests your endurance with vigorous trails to the top for the panoramic view. Then follow the path down over bluffs and along the cliff above the water to Beaumont Park’s twin shell beaches, which can only be accessed by water or hiking. Be prepared as you can be seduced to linger at this very special location. Take the time to view the unusual rock formations that resemble long tracks of triangular chunk shapes. They remind me of dinosaur backs or something else primitive and ancient.

Mortimer Spit can be viewed as you drive over the bridge. Again, the white shell beaches will entice you to have a closer view and I know it has been a sight for intimate weddings. You can also swim here.

Greenburn Lake is a different type of hike but well worth the effort as the path weaves through the forest and follows the lake. This is South Pender’s water supply and access is close to the fire station.

Follow this road further and you will reach Gowlland Point Beach. On a clear day you can see Mount Baker standing proud. This beach is one of my personal favourites. Hike around the point and enjoy the pebbled beach, logs, and interesting rock formations. Watch the orcas that swim past in pods. These islands have a unique system that allows everyone to know when one of the many pods of orcas is close. By the time they arrive everyone is there ready to greet them.

South Pender is the least populated of the two Penders and the residents here seem unhurried and neighborly. I enjoyed feeling set back in time. Essentially, like most islands, South Pender is a large rock, yet it opens to pastoral farmland. Some guidebooks encourage exploring the Gulf Islands by bike. However, beware, on South Pender the roads are narrow with sharp corners and it is difficult to get off the road.

If you are looking to spend a night or two to make the most of your trip, there are a few Bed & Breakfasts as well as Poets Cove Resort on South Pender. Plan your trip and stay awhile to enjoy this lovely island’s natural beauty and quiet pace.

---

This article was written by by Dona Naylor of Island Times Magazine.